City Wine Journal -
Pomerol Charms
City Wine Journal -
Pomerol Charms
2009
I didn't need to ask my classmates to translate in order to understand Jean Luc Thunevin at this particular moment. As we walked through the chai at Chateau Valandraud, he stopped us, dropped anchor and took a stand. "Ausone et n'a pas de terroir?! AUSONE et n'a PAS de TERROIR?!! Et Bourgogne aussi?" He was shaking his hands, challenging anyone to disagree. At this moment, there were none who dared. Fortunately, I didn't have an urge to say, "ummm, did you mean Awesome?" Having tasted Ausone last year, I understood and was a believer in Terroir already. But I'm getting waaay ahead of myself. To reach this point of this extended tour of the Right Bank, and to understand exactly who or what stoked Mr. Thunevin's passions, allow me to take you back to a day and a tour I have yet to even mention.
One of the most delightful students at our Wine MBA program is Marie Vayron, of Pomerol. Marie's family runs Chateau Bourgneuf-Vayron, a classic merlot-based wine of tradition and value, as prices Pomerol go these days. This wine has been reviewed extensively by all the major critics, and even though it is a small production of 3-4,000 cases per year, you may be fortunate to see it on shelf. I cheerfully recommend it, and this is no shameless plug. I have the back-dating to prove it! (You can find my tasting notes for their wines at this link here). Indeed, my first experience with Bourgneuf pre-dated my arrival in Bordeaux. Honest! I was drinking this wine before I even knew there was a delightful Vayron family. Shows you how little I know! We served the wine in Pennsylvania at a Brazilian back yard BBQ, and it was a real crowd-pleaser. So you can imagine my delight at meeting a family member of a special wine, right in my classroom. Small world, indeed.
Marie recently organized a visit to her family winery, and also scored a visit for the class at the absolute pinnacle of Right Bank stardom - Chateau Pétrus. More on that in a moment!
The Vayrons have operated Bourgneuf since 1821 -- they are one of the oldest families in Pomerol. Theirs is the sort of place you hope will always be a part of the Right Bank. Just as Chateau Corbin is closely held and tended by a wonderful family living on that St. Emilion property, so too is Chateau Bourgneuf-Vayron in Pomerol. And it makes such a difference to the feel and vibrancy of the place. You can see that, while it is a business, the effort is a continuous labor of love and commitment. The father, Xavier, and mother, Dominique, have tended and improved the 9 hectare property and the chai in a traditional manner. You see the concrete vats, the mix of old and new barrels, the beautiful cellar, and the vineyard - a single plot - closely situated as a neighbor of renowned Pomerol chateau Trotanoy. From the home, you also have a lovely view of L'Eglise Saint Jean-Baptiste.
Marie's enrollment in the Master program represents her own commitment to the family business. Her sister, Frédérique, works in the cellar and in the vineyard. So Marie is concerning herself with the "front of the house", beginning to think about sales, marketing and distribution and working with her parents as time allows. Growing up, she was not always certain that she would be following the line in the family business. But as the months have passed in this program, it's evident that she is taking to it with a relish, and has an aptitude for representation of the Chateau. She ran the booth for the family at the Grand Tasting in Paris, working alongside her mother, who herself is something of an ambassador of Pomerol. They were gracious to open their home to our class, take us on a tour of the property, and a great tasting of the 2007 and the 2000 vintages. Marie has a great role model in her mother, who handles a crowd in an effortless manner that puts everyone at ease. Indeed, everyone felt so comfortable being there, we were lolling on couches, petting the cat, playing silly duets on the piano, and eating all the bread and cheese. Typical starving students!
That was certainly NOT the demeanor from earlier in the day, however. Everyone was on their best behavior. That is to say, everyone was awe-struck, because Marie arranged for an incredible visit. Probably more people have taken communion at the Vatican than have tasted the wines from these bottles, but that is indeed the story we will come to - next entry! And, after THAT, I promise, we will tie it all together with this business about Terroir, and a Clash of the Titans on the Right Bank!
Charms of Pomerol: Chateau Bourgneuf-Vayron
2/4/09
Mother and daughter. Dominique and Marie Vayron at the Grand Tasting, Paris.